The Iconic Royal Hawaiian in Laguna Beach Re-Opens
By: Kym Whitney, Photos by: Wales Communication
The Royal Hawaiian, a historic Laguna Beach landmark and one of the oldest Tiki bars in California, originally opened its doors in 1947. In fact, it was one of the first restaurants in Orange County. The Royal Hawaiian emulates Hawaii's traditional atmosphere, offering tropical cocktails and popular dishes such as Lapu Lapus and Loco Moco, and after a brief hiatus and changes of ownership, this beloved restaurant is saying 'E como mai' again.
The original owner Harold Hanna and opening manager, Francis Cabang, created a popular hangout for Tiki fanatics and nostalgia seekers for decades and new owners: Los Angeles-based Boulevard Hospitality Group, were intent on carefully reviving the nostalgia-inducing restaurant once again. While the ownership and décor have changed over the years, Boulevard Hospitality Group has incorporated original artifacts, popular cocktails, and menu items into the revived location.
BHG enlisted designer and well-known Tiki aficionado Ignacio "Notch" Gonzalez of Top Notch Kustoms to transform the restaurant to appear as if it's existed this way since 1947, including utilizing artifacts from the Royal Hawaiian's original owners into the build. Immediately upon arrival, you are transported to old Hawaii with Palapa thatches, Blowfish decorations, and lantern-shaped light fixtures hanging down from above. Big private booths are sectioned off using jade tiles salvaged from an ancient Chinese temple. Original lamps and mugs are on display, including other artifacts like the bar's first liquor license and a deed for the property dating back to the late '40s on the walls. A patinaed photograph of Cabang and his wife can be found at the entrance above woven wicker throne chairs.
It's no doubt that The Royal Hawaiian's redesign pays homage to Tiki culture and the Cabang family, who ran the local watering hole for many decades. Gonzalez paid attention to the details, even replacing the tikis out front so they now reflect the unique bug-eyed style of the restaurant's original mid-60s version sculpted by popular Southern California tiki carver Andreas Bumatay. "I called in a favor to my friend and carver, Vic Hernandez, to mimic the iconic Bumatays that stood guard out from many years ago to give the new Royal Hawaiian authenticity before you even step inside," Gonzalez says in a press release. "Vic ended up carving over nine additional Tikis inside, including a 14-foot Hawaiian Ku Tiki that looks over the front door."
Insider Tip: Gonzalez is a huge Star Wars fan. He makes it a point to hide a star wars figure at every restaurant he designs. Keep your eyes open for the Boba Fett figurine hidden in the Royal Hawaiian restaurant. If you find it, let management know. They will surprise you with a little something!
Another attraction is the 22-seat bar that faces over 20 large, lit shelves holding bottles of rum, mugs, and glassware. Staying true to the Tiki bar experience, BHG brought on Dushan Zarić, co-founder of Employees Only and author of "Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails," as Bar Director. Zarić carefully crafted the bar menu, creatively blending island flavors with inventive twists. When we visited, we tried their signature drink, The Royal Hawaiian Mai Tai, and it just might be the best we've ever had. We also tried two tequila-based cocktails: the Paloma Brava and Triple Happiness. All were equally delicious!
Insider Tip: If you order the Triple Happiness, there is a surprise, so have your camera ready.
During our visit, we had the pleasure of meeting General Manager Pedro Robles. He has a history of working in fine dining at establishments such as Fig & Olive, Waterman's Harbor and Riviera in San Clemente. Robles is excited about this new chapter in his career and is quick to say he doesn't miss wearing a suit to work every day. He is already enjoying the laid-back island atmosphere at the Royal Hawaiian, but make no mistake, he takes customer service seriously and can be found walking through the restaurant checking on guests.
The Polynesian-inspired menu is headed by Chef JaeHee Lee of Yamashiro Hollywood. Born in Guam, Chef Lee tapped into his Korean American roots to curate the Royal Hawaiian menu to pull influence from traditional Hawaiian dishes - and Korean, Filipino, Chamorro, Japanese, and island cuisines. Some standouts include the Huli Huli Inasal (BBQ chicken smoked on a traditional charcoal broiler as they did in 1947), the Hamachi Kilawin (a beautiful Filipino-style ceviche laid in coconut milk), and a nod to a Royal Hawaiian favorite, Royal ribs! With so many choices, we finally settled on the Coconut Shrimp, Crab Rangoon, Royal Ribs, and Curry Pineapple Rice with Portuguese Sausage and Shrimp served inside a pineapple. From beginning to end, we enjoyed the Tiki atmosphere, cocktails, food, and chatting with the staff.
The Royal Hawaiian is considered by many as a historic landmark in Laguna Beach and we are happy to see it return better than ever!
Location: 331 N. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach
Information: 949-549-4354; RoyalHawaiianOC.com
